Growing Cucumbers in Home Gardens (Home Garden Series)

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Information is provided on the definition, culture, and care of cucumbers when grown in home gardens. …

Published: April 2013

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Description

Table of Contents

Pile of green cucumbers.

Introduction

Cucumbers are easy to grow in the home garden and very versatile in their form, use, and preparation. Vines bear both pollen bearing (male) and fruit bearing (female) blos-soms. The first flowers to bloom are generally male, and will drop from the vine before fruit sets. This is normal occurrence. The following flowers will be both male and female, and pollination, followed by fruit set will occur.

Selecting Types to Plant

Pick varieties that appeal to both your taste and culinary use. Slicing cucumbers are primarily used for fresh eating and in salads. Pickling cucumbers, which form small fruit about 3 to 6 inches long, are suitable for pickling. These may also be eaten fresh, although it’s best to peel them first. There are also novelty types, such as the yellow, round lemon cucumber, or the foot-long Asian.

Be sure to select a variety that matures within the growing season of your geographic area. Most cucumbers require 50 to 70 days from planting to first harvest; and this may require a longer growing season than some areas in Washington allow. For western Washington gardens, select early maturing varieties.

Choosing a Planting Site

Cucumbers require full-sun exposure, and will grow best when planted in fertile, well-drained soils that contain a high level of organic matter. The plants need ample space, as the vines can reach three to five feet in length before setting fruit. Some gardeners grow cucumbers on a fence or trellis to save space and to keep the fruit off the ground. Trellising cucumbers can increase yields 2 to 3 times, due to better disease control (increased airflow reduces foliar diseases), less damage to vines during harvest, and more thorough harvesting. Cucumbers have moderate to high water needs, particularly during the heat of summer.

Planting Guidelines

Purchase seed from catalogs and garden centers. It is not recommended to plant cucumber seed that have been saved from the previous year, as they are unlikely to pro-duce the same variety. When sowing seeds outdoors, ger-mination is best when the soil temperature is at least 55 °F. Seeds can be planted in mid- to late-May, 4 to 5 seeds per hill (mounds of soil) at a depth of 1-inch. Space the hills 4 to 5 feet apart. When the plants develop two to three leaves, thin the plants to three well-spaced plants per hill. Cucumbers grow best when temperatures are between 70 and 95 °F. Cucumbers are frost-tender vegetables, meaning frost will kill the plants.

Cucumber plants may be started indoors (in the home or greenhouse) four to five weeks prior to transplanting in the garden. Plant seeds in 4-inch pots made of paper, compressed peat soil pellets (such as Jiffy-7’s), or even egg cartons. Transplant cucumber plants outdoors after the danger of frost has passed.

Plant Maintenance

The first few weeks after planting are the most critical to the survival and productivity of the cucumber plant. If seeds fail to germinate or germinate unevenly, gardeners should investigate the cause in order to prevent the same problem occurring the next year. Common causes include seeds planted too deep, cold soil, old seed, pest-damaged seed, and the like. Gardeners should be familiar with the appearance of normal, healthy plants, and periodically observe the plants for any signs of stress or pests. This should be done two to three times per week.

The most common sign of stress is leaf wilting which is associated with under- or over-watering the plant. The moisture level of the soil near the root zone of the affected cucumber plant should be moist and pliable, not dry and crumbly, or wet and dripping. Gardeners need to watch for stunted plants with pale leaves, which is a sign of low fertility soil; or vigorous plants that fail to bloom or set fruit, which indicates soil with excessive fertility.

Another key period for plant maintenance is during bloom. Most cucumber varieties have male and female flowers (distinguished by the small round growth at the base of the flower) on the same plant. The blooms depend on bees and insects to transfer the male pollen to the female flower. Take precautions to minimize insecticide use during flower bloom and encourage bee and insect access and visitation in your garden. Inadequately pollinated female cucumber flowers will die and fall off the vine before fruit develops.

Crop at a Glance

  • Growing season: Summer
  • Time of planting: When soil temperatures reach 65°F
  • Spacing: 4 to 5 seeds or 2 to 5 seedlings per hill, spaced 4 to 5 feet between hills
  • Days to harvest: 50 to 70 days
  • Average yield: Slicing cucumbers, 10 to 15 per vine; pickling cucumbers, 20 per vine
  • Common starting method: Direct seed or transplant seedlings
Green leaf with white powdery substance.

Powdery Mildew

A fungal problem common in eastern Washington.

Photo: R.S. Byther

Symptoms: Powdery white patches on leaves. Russet-like brown and dead areas on leaves.

Corrective Action: Promote good air circulation within plant canopy. Plant disease resistant varieties. Destroy infested mate-rial. Fungicides are not recommended.

Powdery Mildew

A fungal problem common in eastern Washington.

Photo: R.S. Byther

Symptoms: Powdery white patches on leaves. Russet-like brown and dead areas on leaves.

Corrective Action: Promote good air circulation within plant canopy. Plant disease resistant varieties. Destroy infested mate-rial. Fungicides are not recommended.